Review: New! S’mores Donut from Tim Hortons
Drive around upstate New York or Canada, and you’re just as likely to come across a Tim Hortons at every intersection as you are the ubiquitous Dunkin’ Donuts which dot the landscapes of the Northeast. Like Dunkin’ Donuts, Tim Hortons has an almost cult-like following of patrons, which swears by their combination of coffee and innovative breakfast and lunch menu concepts. But at their core, both restaurants trace their roots back to the humble donut – America’s first and, in my opinion, best breakfast value menu item.
I stopped at a Tim Hortons on a recent Sunday morning to grab one of their new S’mores Donuts, although it was without substantial internal debate. You see, I have a love-hate relationship with “designer” cake donuts – a relationship not unlike my love-hate relationship with Pop-Tarts. Maybe it’s me, but has anyone noticed how the seemingly awesome combination of flavors which the latest donut and Pop-Tart flavors seek to deliver upon end up never actually meeting expectations? It’s not that they aren’t good, but that they’re trying to do too much, and relegate the essence of the “plain” concept of a donut or toaster pastry to second-rate status. And that’s a dang shame, because a simple powdered cake donut can be a great thing, especially when dipped in black coffee.
But then again, you knew that, didn’t you? And you sure as heck don’t check into GrubGrade to read about one dude’s thoughts of a powdered cake donut, so let’s get back to this S’mores donut:
a new way to enjoy a classic camping treat without any of the fuss! Now everyone can have s’more of this yummy delight, made with a chocolate cake donut, chocolate fondant and a delicious marshmallow & honey crumb topping
First off, a deduction of points to the employee here for not using wax paper to separate the donut from other treats I had gotten in my order, as cross donut and/or pastry combination can be disastrous if not rectified immediately by a greedy pair of chompers. Fortunately I was starving, and with a six hour car ride in front of me, I snatched the donut away from my sisters’ croissant faster than this thing will send your blood sugar spiking.
As for the 290 calorie donut, it’s your standard cake donut size – dainty – and had a deep cocoa flavored cake base which was a little dry but not off-putting. The sweetness level seemed right – coffee like and subservient to the cocoa flavor – and the crumb didn’t crack as if the donut had sat around very long.
The topping was good but not mind-blowing. I thought it was certainly more pronounced than the flavor of a S’mores Pop-Tart, but it carried with it the same kind of chocolate chip and graham flavor that was intertwined with distinct marshmallow spikes in sweetness. I got a taste of the honey, but somehow, it seemed out-of-place given the marshmallow and chocolate. It tasted what I would like a S’mores Pop-Tart would taste like, which, interestingly enough, is not really the actual S’mores flavor of my memory, but a more chocolate intensive flavor of a S’more.
One element that is kind of lost in the topping – which does a decent job of providing some crunchiness – is the chocolate glaze on top. This is supposed to provide the rich milk chocolate counterpoint to the cocoa donut, but it’s overwhelmed by the graham, ‘mallow, and oddly placed honey combination on top. Still, at a buck it’s not a bad buy, although who are we kidding, a single donut for breakfast isn’t going to satiate anyone. No matter, I guess that just leaves more room to go back for that classic glazed yeast donut or Old Fashioned Cake.
Pros: Sweet 'mallow and graham flavored topping has deep "s'more" flavor that is superior to S'more Pop Tart. Solid cake base that isn't dried out and has good cocoa flavor. A modest 290 calories for a donut, and no trans fat.
Cons: Cross pastry contamination. Chocolate "fondont" is lost beneath overpowering taste of topping and depth of cocoa flavor in cake, leading to lack of a richness factor. Cake could have better moisture. Size is dainty. Reminder that designer cake donut concepts always look cooler than they are.
Grubbing on-the-go: 8.00/10
Price: 99 cents
Overall GrubGrade: 7.25 (decent)
More Info: TimHortons.com
Tim Hortons S'mores Donut
Total Fat: 13 g
Saturated Fat: 6 g
Trans Fat: 0.1 g
Cholesterol: 5 mg
Sodium: 320 mg
Total Carbs: 41 g
Fiber: 2 g
Sugars: 20 g
Protein: 4 g